Monday, September 29, 2008

Sacred Places and Humanness

It is a quiet afternoon, and I find myself rained in. The rainy season has ended according to the calendar, but the clouds seem to disagree. And although I would like to be out and about, there is a moment of peace here that I am very grateful for. (If nothing else, it forces me to sit down long enough to update our blog.)

We have found these moments here, in the midst of this busy city. We have seen oases of beauty and tranquility...

As part of our language study, we have been doing some cultural learning activities. Two Fridays ago, we (Amos, Ben, and myself) along with our guru, Parameswori, went on a city tour. Our first stop was Kathmandu Durbar Square. History, art, and religion all beg to be seen here. Ancient temples, ornately carved...traditional handicrafts...statues...a gently bustling place. Cars are generally prohibited in this area, which is quite literally a breath of fresh air. Parameswori grew up in this area and holds many memories from her childhood there. Through her we learned the stories behind the many temples and statues, their history, their significance.
Our second stop was the Boudhanath Stupa, my personal favorite. Entering this sacred place makes you instantly forget the noise and smog of the street just outside. Soft Tibetan music welcomes you inside...and makes you never want to leave. This is the largest stupa in Nepal, and it attracts many Tibetan pilgrims who can be seen praying here. The stupa is surrounded by beautiful Bhuddist monastaries as well as traditional Tibetan shoppes selling crafts, clothing, and beads. (Thankfully they also sell some of their music!) We circumambulated the stupa and tried to take it all in before heading onward to Pashupatinath Temple. Pashupatinath is the most important Hindu temple, and also quite extensive. Being non-Hindus, we could only skirt the temple, but were able to witness the public cremations that take place just outside, right next to the river. Needless to say, it was very sobering. We walked around the temple grounds, which are populated by a small colony of friendly monkeys. Apparently they are used to people and get much of their food from street vendors there. Surrounding the Pashupatinath are many small caves and huts where Hindu ascetics reside. We were able to speak with a group of them and get our photo taken with them...for a small price. :) They seemed to enjoy it as much as we did. It was one of our most memorable days here (positive memories, anyway).

This past Friday, Amos and I learned the art of making momo's (veggies or meat and spices wrapped in dough and then steamed or fried) from scratch. We went to Paramaswori's house for an afternoon of grinding spices, chopping vegetables, kneading dough, shaping momo's (sometimes with success), and eating copious amounts of them.

Sitting there on the floor, covered in flour and bits of potato skin, chatting and eating momo's together was so...human, simply. What a beautiful communion. We're learning much more here than we expected to.


Kathmandu Durbar Square


Hanuman Temple @ Kathmandu Durbar Square


Boudhanath Stupa


Our new yogi friends


Making momo's!


Paramaswori and Kalyani

Friday, September 26, 2008

Nepali bhaashaa

With five weeks of language study under our belts, Heidi and I now have the vocabulary level equivalent to a seven or eight year old. We are able to have very basic conversations with the local shop keepers and our taxi drivers. Although our vocabulary is still very limited, it feels good to be able to communicate with others in their language, rather than relying on them to know the language we speak. Since many Western tourists visit Nepal every year, the locals tend to assume that we do not know any Nepali. It's nice to surprise them with a greeting or a question.

We have class every day for three hours and usually spend another hour or two studying (yay for flashcards!). Our language teachers are very gracious. They laugh at us when we say something totally absurd in Nepali, and we return the favor when they mess up in English. Here are a few examples:

Heidi said "My name is the United States" instead of "My country is the United States".
I told our teacher that I was seventy years old and that I wanted to buy a kilo of her daughter (awkward).
Our teacher meant to say that she has never eaten lobster- instead she said that she's never eaten lovebirds.

Here are a few of our favorite Nepali words (written in Roman letters since we haven't started learning the script yet and most of the readers of this blog probably wouldn't be able to read the script anyway):

rangy changy (pronounced rungy chungy)= multi-colored
chijbij (cheez beez)= stuff (also the name of our friend's dog)
baaph re baaph (baff ray baff)= wow
hunuhunchha= to be
dudh (dude)= milk
kushy= happy



Heidi and I with our teachers, Paramesori and Kalyani

Thursday, September 18, 2008

Himalayas

Last Thursday we left at dawn and headed to Dhulikhel...about an hour east of Kathmandu. Our colleagues from Bangladesh were enjoying a few days there for a retreat at a local guest house, and we went to spend the morning with them.

As the taxi made its way upward on gently winding roads, the noise and traffic soon gave way to greener, quieter air. The sun rose, revealing a strikingly clear morning. Soaking rains from the previous night had painted the hills in brilliant greens. Small hillside homes, brown and simple, dotted the vast landscape. The sky was enormous, and seemed to grow larger the further we went.

Towards the end of our journey, the road narrowed and was shaded by a canopy of trees. Birdsong welcomed us into the unexpected forest as we left the taxi and walked along the path to the guest house. It was a short walk, but a beautiful one, through the glistening forest. Men and women could be seen performing prayer and cleansing rituals at shrines and fountains as we walked by. The sound of bells echoed through the hills...the now familiar sounds of the day's beginning.

Upon arrival, we were of course invited to venture up to the roof to catch a glimpse of the hills, or the mountains if we should be so lucky. And lucky we were! The mountains in all their snow-capped glory filled the horizon with unbelievable beauty, reaching in and out of clouds, dwarfing the hills and valley and homes in their shadow. I fail miserably with words here, because these mountains are beyond description. They are beyond capturing on camera, but we did try anyway.

It is, I hope, likely that we will witness a similar scene many more times here in Nepal. This was a glimpse only, I'm sure. But I hope it never loses its magic. I hope that every time my eyes lay upon these God-given miracles of creation, I will let my breath be taken away again and again.


Sunday, September 14, 2008

Kites and Our Common Humanity















Yesterday, I stood outside our third floor apartment here in Kathmandu, watching two Nepali boys flying a kite on a rooftop next door. I could hear their laughter as they struggled to get the kite in the air. Over and over again, the taller of the two threw the kite as high as he could, while the other boy controlled the reel a few feet away. Each time, the kite languished in the air with the smaller boy frantically urging it to take off. During the few minutes that I watched these boys, they weren’t able to keep the kite air-born longer than a few seconds. Despite their unsuccessful attempts, they were clearly enjoying themselves. Their laughter came easily. Although they spoke in a language that remains foreign to me, I could tell that they were good naturedly teasing each other. As I looked across the rooftops of our neighborhood on this cloudless afternoon, I could see this scenario repeated on numerous houses.


Kites are everywhere here in Nepal. On breezy days, I venture up to our rooftop to watch the kites dancing in the wind. I find comfort in them. The kites here are simple, not like the elaborate ones you see at the beach at home. And boys of all ages are clearly enamored by them. They spend hours on their rooftops, usually with a friend or two, making their kites flip, bounce and twist in the wind. It’s a beautiful site with the “hills” surrounding the Kathmandu Valley serving as an exotic backdrop. The kites remind me of the book, Kite Runner by Khalid Hosseini, the story of an Afghani boy and the important role that a kite has in his life. In a village we visited a few weeks ago, I watched two young boys trying to “cut down” each other’s kites, a scene straight out of the book.

As Heidi and I have been thrust into a new home with a new culture and a new language, I’ve been looking for commonalities. What are the things we have in common as human beings? Seeing the kites flying high in the air above this vast city takes me back to my childhood. I remember flying my kite in our backyard with my sisters. Watching something connected to me soar high overhead was exhilarating. I remember running through the fields when the kite dropped, trying to be the first to find it. Despite all of the differences between me and the boys flying kites next door, I know the joy they feel when the wind catches their kite, and it flies higher than they have ever been. I have felt that same joy. I know the bonds that children make with their friends while playing. Most of my best childhood memories involve friends- playing football in the snow, acting out our cops and robbers fantasies, racing bikes down our lane.

Whether our childhood memories are good or not so good, there is something about children that enhances our capacity to love, that opens our hearts in ways that we do not always experience with adults. Perhaps it is their innocence…we do not blame them for being poor, or black, or lazy in the same ways we seem to blame adults. We don’t tell children to get off welfare or to get a job. Most of us think children should have free healthcare even if we don’t think their parents deserve it. We don’t hold children responsible for their religious preferences (something about the age of accountability). We haven’t been taught to fear children. We don’t worry about them blowing up buildings or stealing our jobs. We tend to see the good in children. We can relate to them. They play the same games we played. They tease their friends the way we did. They have the same dreams we used to dream.

In the isolated communities (including churches) that I have been a member of for far too long, there is an implicit, and sometimes not so implicit, fear of the “other”. The other is a nameless, faceless force that we create in our minds and then label as “terrorist”, “illegal alien”, “liberal”, “conservative”, etc. These labels allow us to remain detached, to view people not as people but as ideological terms that we easily classify. As most people who engage in relationships with the “other” know, in the few short weeks that I have been here, I’ve realized that these labels simply do not work. I’m watching young boys, who are clearly of a different race than I am, most likely of a different religion, flying kites, an activity that I loved to do as a child. I’m experiencing the hospitality, love and friendship of people who look and believe much differently than I do. I’m no longer able to think of the “other” in abstract terms. The other is my neighbor, my teacher and my friend.

Call it naiveté, idealism or whatever label you choose, but I’m wondering what would happen if we pictured all those in our human family as children- not in a belittling way but in a way that breaks down our walls, in a way that allows us to treat others as they deserve to be treated, as daughters and sons of God. Would this help us to see the good in people, instead of constantly assuming the worst? Would it allow us to build relationships with the “other” without the fear that now traps us in homogenous communities? I’ve been thinking about this idea particularly during the U.S. presidential race (which, admittedly, I’m thankful to be a bit removed from). Due to my particular worldview and the values I have formed through the years, I have a difficult time relating to John McCain. I have a tendency to think the worst of him- to imagine him as an evil warmonger who cares more about cutting taxes for the rich and drilling for oil than about caring for the poor and God’s good Creation. Of course, even if I am able to picture John McCain as a small boy- running in the fields behind his house, looking up at a kite flying high in the sky, laughing with his friends- I would still disagree vehemently with his political views. But perhaps this picture would allow me to separate John McCain the person from John McCain the politician. Perhaps it would allow me to step away from my stereotypes and engage in transforming relationships with the John McCains of this world. Perhaps it would allow me to enter into honest dialogue with those who think differently than I do without the need to convince them of their ignorance.

I think it’s worth a try…so during this election season, when I’m tempted to resort to the labels and stereotypes that are so readily available to classify the “other”, I will try to remember the boys next door. I will try to hear their laughter, see their kite flying high in the air and remember that we are all children.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Honestly, I & II

I.
It is so strange to be living here. Nothing feels like reality...or maybe everything is so real I don't recognize it. It is hard to swallow, hard to believe that I see these things outside my window, that I step over these things with my American feet.

I am so incredibly white.

How do I get used to being a minority? How do I behave when I'm encroaching upon someone else's very ancient territory? I feel so invasive, so rude, just by being here. What right have I to take up space, create waste here? What right have I to let this beautiful fabric touch my foreign skin, this delicious food my foreign lips?

There is no such thing as hiding here. No such thing as going by unnoticed. Men bare voices, authority. Women bare souls, working hands. Goats and chickens bare guts. Children bare their bottoms. Everyone bares their spirituality with pride.

There is so much, too much, to see, hear, feel, sense. It bombards, surrounds, flies into my eyes like the road dust. It is so present, so intense, and yes...so real that I find it unreal. Nevertheless, here it is, unapologetic. Reality, asking to be noticed.

II.
Things must come undone, be recreated, redefined...

Our ideas of clean and unclean
Too much and not enough
Fair and unfair
Rich and poor
Convenient and inconvenient
Necessary and luxurious
Ugly and beautiful
Appropriate and inappropriate
Need and want
Mine and yours...or ours
Work and rest
Easy & difficult
Right and wrong
Truth and fiction

Our reality must change, is changing whether we want it to or not. Ideas we had preconceived don't work, aren't pertinent. The living, breathing essence of this place does not fit into the boxes we brought along. We cannot smooth it out, wipe it down, crop it to size, Americanize it. We are grateful for this. Frustrated and grateful. It forces us to unclench our fists and be rid of our precious "jewels". It forces us to question more, to let go of what we thought were tidy, familiar answers. It compels us to speak another language altogether.