Immigration & Compassion

This week, I read an article in Time magazine which told the story of a small, former manufacturing town in Oregon. As the economic crisis claims more and more jobs, the residents of St. Helens are lashing out at an easy target, immigrants. During these uncertain times, they are doing what comes naturally, protecting their own. I understand their rationale. Usually, immigrants, particularly those that are in the U.S. illegally, can be hired for less than what an employer would have to pay a legal citizen. When times are tough, employers may be tempted to hire more immigrants, which means even less jobs for "Americans".

I read this article during a time when I've been thinking a lot about immigration. In poor countries like Nepal, immigration is a common coping strategy. In fact, in many rural parts of this country, immigration, historically to India and most recently to the Gulf States, is almost a part of the culture. There are communities in Nepal where over 90% of the households have at least one family member who is working out of the country at any given time. Remittances, the money that is sent home by migrant workers, accounts for approximately 18% of Nepal's total GDP. Although migrating for work allows many Nepali families to escape the clutches of hunger, it is not without risks. HIV/AIDS has increased drastically in rural communities of Nepal as more and more migrants, mostly men, leave their home communities for months at a time. These men, some of them unknowingly infected with HIV/AIDS, then return to their communities where the disease is spread. In addition to the risk of HIV/AIDS, migrants are vulnerable to exploitation, theft and abuse. During this time, when the world economy is falling apart, the risks are even greater. Of course, for many immigrants, those in Oregon, India and elsewhere, the choice that remains is not an easy one…stay in a host country where the jobs prospects are increasingly bleak or return home to the certainty of poverty and hunger.

In addition to the huge effect that immigration has on Nepal, another reason that I've been thinking about immigration lately is because I feel a bit like an immigrant. I'll be the first to admit that this is not a fair comparison. The differences between me and your average migrant worker are stark. I am in Nepal by my own volition, and I can leave whenever I want. The stipend I get as a "volunteer" is more than the average Nepali makes. Although my skin color is different than most people in Nepal, that difference tends to work in my favor (except when I'm negotiating with a taxi). But I would argue that there are some similarities. I now know what it feels like to be the outsider. I understand the frustrations of not being able to communicate in the dominant language. In many ways, I am a stranger in this place. I spend most of my time being confused. I am displaced from the community that gives me support and a sense of belonging.

So what's the point? Why am I writing this? I guess I'm just saying that for me, recognizing the plight of many Nepali migrants and considering my own feelings of separation, I will no longer be able to ignore the reality of immigration. I will be forced to look past the statistics (the number of "illegal aliens", the number of jobs "lost" to immigrants, etc) and see the faces and hear the stories of real people…stories that will now sound a bit more familiar.

The Good, The Bad And The Ugly

n most of our blog posts and in the pictures we've posted on Facebook, Heidi and I have tried to focus on the good things about living in Nepal. You'll see pictures of the Himalayas taken from our rooftop and beautifully crafted temples which are literally around every corner in our neighborhood. We've shared stories of elephant safaris and hikes through villages that are centuries old. Reading these stories and seeing these pictures, a few friends have noted that it appears we are living in some kind of mystical paradise. And there are days when that statement describes how we feel. However, it seems important that we provide some balance to this picture by showing a bit of the ugly side of Kathmandu. The pictures below are common sights from around the city, a metropolis which has grown tremendously in the past few years without the necessary infrastructure to support that growth.

This meat shop, which we affectionately refer to as "that gross meat stand", is just around the corner from our house…which of course means we have to walk by it almost every day.

Shacks line the Bagmati River, which runs through the middle of Kathmandu. Hindus consider this river holy and used to bathe in it during festivals. Most of Kathmandu's trash is dumped here and then washed away by the monsoons.

Dogs are everywhere and usually look like this.

Trash is everywhere and usually looks like this.

Here you get the combination- nasty river, lots of trash and a dog (may he or she rest in peace)

Well Hello, Thailand!

Two weeks ago, in a somewhat uncharacteristic moment of spontaneity, Amos and I ditched our plans to go trekking in the mountains...and instead went to the beach in Thailand! And what a fabulous decision it turned out to be. (Of course, trekking is still on our list, but the beauty of living in Nepal is that we can always do it some other time.)

A week in Thailand. A week of sweating buckets, eating well, breathing ocean air, and being delighted, amazed, and spontaneous.

After spending the 1st night in a Bangkok "Budget Hotel" (think: closet-sized room, concrete floor, no sink, no toilet paper, no covers...and a bath towel that rips while you are drying yourself off, plus loud bass keeping you up all night). At least there was electricity! Thankfully, it went up hill--way uphill--from there.

We took a bus to Hua Hin, a beach about 3 hours outside of Bangkok. It is a cute, bustling town, touristy--but only just so. We were greeted by lovely garden restaurants, sea breezes, and of course, the beautiful sea itself. Gorgeous, gorgeous. We soaked up the bright sun, the white sand, the aqua-colored water, explored the town, enjoyed Thai foot massages, took advantage of the amazing seafood and authentic gelato, and even got to eat Auntie Anne's soft pretzels (they are not so rare in Thailand, apparently)! We rented a scooter for a day and zipped around to other beaches, sites, and to the National Wildlife Reserve. Nighttime in Hua Hin (as is the case in much of Thailand) is alive with markets selling fake brand name clothing, souvenirs, delicious Thai food, and almost anything else you could want (or not want). The quietest place is the beach, perfect for a candlelit picnic under the palm trees. Probably the highlight of the trip was our visit to the Hua Hin Vineyard, a magnificent place with equally magnificent wines. Although we missed the harvest season, we did get to see the elephants they use to harvest the grapes!

The remaining two days of our trip was spent back in Bangkok. We walked the streets, explored surrounding areas, walked through beautiful parks, ate more and more delicious Thai food! We took on the adventure of the Weekend Market, the largest flea market in the world (so I'm told). Large it is. Full of endless shops, sights, sounds, smells, animals bombarding the senses. It was delightfully overwhelming!

Thailand has always been at the top of my Places To Go List...and I'm not taking it off. We would both go back in another spontaneous heartbeat!